I have a nirvana shirt with a pic of him on it and it says (1967-1994) on it, but its a size XL and I wear a small, I want to transform it into something cute and my size, but I don't have a serger, do I necessarily need to serge it? If I don't, then what do I do instead of serge it?
No it is not necessary. If you are using a sewing machine you can use the zig zag stitch after you straight stitch it. That overlocks the edges so it doesn't fray. The first dress I ever made I just pressed the seams flat and it is still going strong today. If you have those zig~zag scissors they help with fraying. Or you could do a french seam. Here is a good link for french seams: http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/aa012098.htm
i have a serger and i never use it unless i am making something i plan to sell online or at a show. i just pink the edges of things i make for me and my phamily and it seems to be fine.
I think theyre talking about an overlocker you know, for finishing the edges of garnments to make sure the fabric doesnt fray
serger and overlock machines and stitches are the same, both enclose the raw edge to help prevent fraying, personally i love my serger, it makes everything sew so much quicker and stays way durable! PS HI Ericka!! talk to u soon Melanie
I think a serger probably makes life easier, but (this may just be prejudice because I don't own one) I think it makes the inside of a garment both itchy (unless you use knits) and sloppy-looking. Instead, I recommend (based on my 16 years' sewing experience) french seams for lightweight fabrics (cotton, lightweight linen, etc.) and flat-felled seams (think jeans) for heavier materials. I'll do my best to explain both without pictoral reference, but if you need a visual, you should go to a fabric store and browse through a sewing reference manual. If you're serious about sewing, I'd actually recommend coughing up the cash to buy one (or get it used, or as a hand-me-down, which is how I got mine!), because it is invaluable in explaining anything more complex than a simple, straight seam. That said, here's my explanation: French seams: these are easy; put wrong sides of your fabric together and sew a straight seam about 3/8" from the edge. Turn, press, and sew seam as usual, making sure to catch the previous seam inside the new seam. You'll end up with a seam that's slightly bulkier than a simple, straight seam, but it won't matter if you do it in a lightweight fabric, especially if you press it to one side after sewing. Flat-Felled seams: These are my personal favorite. They're a little bit time-consuming, but they're worth every bit of extra effort: once completed, they not only strenghten the seamline and prevent fraying, but they also feel nice against your skin, AND they look fancy. Like I said before, think about the way the leg seams on jeans look, with the thicker seam & topstitching...got it?...Ok, you can put that seam on the inside, too, if you'd like. I recently made a really cool dress in lightweight linen that my mom got me (it was my favorite color blue! so pretty!) and decided to flat-fell the entire thing, because I wanted it to last forever. I'd say it added an extra forty-five minutes of labor time, but this dress has been through the wash at least twenty times, and I have yet to find one fray. So I'll stop rambling and get to the point... 1.) sew your seam normally, with a 5/8" allowance (or less, if you want, but I think it's easier to learn these things with a wide seam allowance). FYI--these instructions are for an interior flat-felled seam, not a typical jeans seam. If you want a jeans seam, follow these instructions, but sew the aforementionedl seam with wrong sides of the fabric together. 2.) Press it to one side of the garment. I recommend that all seams be pressed towards the back, with the exception of darts (duh) and shoulder- or cuff-related seams (also duh). 3.) Trim the bottom seam allowance (the LOWER edge of the fabric, which should be sitting UNDER the top seam allowance, once you've pressed them towards one side) to about 1/4". Again, you can make it smaller, but if this is your first attempt, I really recommend making these things on the wider side. 4.) Fold the edge of the top seam allowance UNDER the newly-trimmed bottom seam allowance, making a sort of pocket for the bottom seam allowance to sit in. If you're not used to doing this, it helps to use an iron. 5.) Pin it in place. Even if you don't use pins, pin it. It will save you a lot of headache. I've been sewing for years, and I still think pins are great. You can get 1000 of them for $1.99. Aspirin (or ganja, whatever you're into) costs more than that. Buy the pins. 6.) Sew about 1/8" from the folded edge. If you have a 1/4" margin on your presser foot, you can just put the edge of the presser foot on the seam, and it will probably keep you in the right place. 7.) Turn it right-side out (if you're flat-felling the inside) and check out your work. You should see the crease of a seam, with a line of stitching running about 1/4" parallel to it. If you want, you can sew another line of stitching right next to, or over, the seam, for symmetrical purposes. 8.) Pat yourself on the back. If all of your edges are tucked in properly, this seam will not fray--at least, not without a lot of help. There were garments made with flat-felled seams in the 18th century that STILL have not frayed, to this day. I hope this was helpful. I'm willing to answer any questions related to this subject--or any other subject. I love sewing, and I have yet to meet anyone my age (20) who shares my love of sewing (and doesn't try to compete with me over who's a better seamstress, which is really stupid, for two reasons: 1.) it's not a competition, and 2.) I have yet to meet anyone my age who has been sewing as long as I have, and, let's face it, sewing is just one of those things that only improves with practice. Actually, I wish I knew someone (other than my mom) who is a better seamstress than I, because then I could ask them for help when I run into problems...) So ask me questions...and e-mail them to me if possible, because I don't check these message boards often enough to be useful. peace out, Alyce
sometimes what i do with a shirt that's too big is on the side you kinda like slit it every centimeter... and then you cut all the slits in half and tie them together.. its kinda hard to explain.. but i like it..soo yeah..
~*hey you ~ for your specific project with the too big t-shirt :: try it on inside out and pin it to how you'd like it to fit ~ then :: take it off CAREFULLY!! ~ then :: use a semi-tight straight stitch where your pin-line is... then you may serge it, OR do a snazzy zig-zag (to stopo the fraying) and cut off the excess! voila! a serger isn't necessary at all ~ it just makes things more *professional* and in some cases easier! i'd use the tight straight stitch to define your shape, then the zig-zag to make it functional! best of wishes & luck!*~
