I've heard amazing things about this country, and I'm sad to only have 15 days to explore it, top to bottome. I'm border crossing via Thailand, via Huai Xai, and hope to travel the entire country and leave into Cambodia within 15-17 days. To those who have been: -With only two weeks, what is essential? What should be skipped? I'm more interested in going as cheap as possible, and spending less time in the super-touristy areas (not that there really is that this time of year in Laos). -How should I plan ahead in terms of transport, road conditions and duration of travels, etc. -Where can or should I get my Cambodian visa? Apply in advance? I dont think you can get one at the Laos/Cambodia crossing.. If you are able to partly answer any of these questions I will be greatful... Thanks lots... thomas
-With only two weeks, what is essential? What should be skipped? I'm more interested in going as cheap as possible, and spending less time in the super-touristy areas (not that there really is that this time of year in Laos). Two weeks isn't so bad. You'll have enough time to do the main trail north to south but you wont have enough time to really get that far off the beaten track. I crossed over into Vientiane from Thailand not Huai Xai. But I know you can get a slow boat down the Mekong river to Lunag Prabang. You may want to think about that option as the Mekong is really beautiful around the Luang Prabang region. I will probably be doing this when I go there this November. You can book tickets for the boat on the Thai side of the border or off of the touts on the Laotion side of the border (you'll be swarmed by them after you get your visa) in Huai Xai. The other option I suggest is going on an eco-trek into the Bokeo Nature Reserve. There is a head office in Huai Xai who will arrange it for you. The eco-treks in Laos are becoming popular and are good fun, you usually get to experience some of the old culture and ways of life that are dissapearing from much of SE asia plus you know your money is going into protecting the forests and wildlife from illegal logging. It's usually very reasonably priced too. Another option is you could head up to the far north on the Chinese/Burmese border to Luang Nam Tha province, then head to Muang Sing (which is only a few miles from both borders). The town itself doesn't have much to offer apart from opium dens, old women with black teeth selling opium, and a few chinese people, but it's a base point for some reasonably priced, eco-friendly, short 3 day treks along the Burmese border. However the roads are still a bit of a state here so be prepared for some long journeys. If you are short of time you may find yourself pressed for time and stressed out from trying to cram to much in in too short a period of time. And Laos is really a country you cannot rush under any circumstances. The culture and vibe is just so incredibly 'laid back' (no one is in a rush to do anything) so it'll only stress you out. Whatever you decide to do you'll inevitably have to stop off at Luang Prabang. Don't be put off by the fact it's a tourist city. Yes, the package tours are starting to creep in, but really it still has such an amazing vibe, decent resturants, temples/novice monks absolutely everywhere, and some pretty stunning waterfalls about an hour away in the surrounding countryside that are a must-see. It's well situated, right on the Mekong, and still has a vague French colonial feel to it. It's the perfect place to chill out for a few days, especially if you are heading to or coming back from the north of the country where all those twisting winding bad roads and regular break downs can drain you... The only other place I know in north Laos is 'the plain of jars'. Apparently it's really boring though this is only what I heard from other travellers, I never went there myself. It's a bit out of the way. It literately sounds as if it's just some broken jars...on a plain lol hmmm...Also much of it is out of bounds because there are loads of unexploded ordinance left over from when America carpet bombed that area of the country. So from Luang Prabang there is only one way to go, which is south. Now the next place of interest is a place you'll probably hear about as soon as you get into Laos called Vang Vieng. Personally I absolutely despise the place. It's been completely overrun and ruined by cliquey stereotypical hippie-travellers. There is music literately 24/7 blasting out so you can forget about enjoying the surrounding Laotion countryside in some peace and quiet (which is beautiful). Basically Vang Vieng used to be a quiet town surrounded by beautiful countryside, some cool limestone mountains and a river, now it's just a hippie hang out and the old way of life/vibe has been completely lost... That said, if floating down the river in a rubber tube whilst occasionally being reeled in by Laotions with big sticks who offer you pre-rolled joints, magic mushrooms and beer Lao is your thing, you'll love it lol That's what most people seem to go there for... Personally I didn't bother and instead opted to hire a bike with a friend. We rode about 20km around Vang Vieng exploring limestone caves instead. Some are quite boring, but a few are really impressive (crazy transparent glow in the dark spiders, crystals etc). One has a lagoon but unfortunately I didn't get to see it. So if you are going to stop off in Vang Vieng I advise you just check out the surrounding area/limestone caves. Two days was enough for me though before i'd had enough. I probably wont bother going back there again. About an hour or two away you come to Vientiane. Probably the most chilled out capital city in the world. To be honest, not all that much to do, but it's an okay place to relax in for a few days. There is a 'forest temple' towards the outskirts of town that is really nice, the monks are all really up for chatting (like in Luang Prabang) and practicing there English. They do a short morning meditation class (free) once a week, and there is also a herbal spa and massage 'parlour'. Other than that not much to do other than a few temples and a market. Now, south laos I can't really tell you much about. I only went to Pakse (nothing there, just a hub to the Thai border crossing) and then to 'Four Thousand Islands' (Don Det and Don Khong) which is in the deep douth near the Cambodian border. I'm assuming this is where you are going to cross. The islands themselves I think are in the process of becoming like Vang Vieng. I was there in 2005 and they were putting up tonnes of new guest houses. They were also getting electricty via power generators for a few hours a day. But that said it was quite nice. I spent 3 days there swinging in a hammock and going swimming in the mekong. It's well situated because you can relax there before heading back into Thailand or heading into Cambodia by river boat. Also some companies offer to get your Cambodian visa for a few extra dollars. They can courier your passport to Vientiane, get your Cambodia visa, then be back with it in a couple of days...Maybe there is an immigration office you can do this in Pakse now, i'm not sure. But that's an option if you can't be bothered to get your cambodian visa in Vientiane (easy to do this, hundreds of agents offer it in shop windows, just ask at your guesthouse). Ok so I hope this helps you a bit Thomas. It's always a pleasure to talk about Laos. Wonderful place. I'm sure you'll enjoy Cambodia too. Angkor is pretty amazing, just make sure you hire a moto and get the 3 day pass. It's worth the dollars in my opinion. When are you going? Pete
Thank you so much Pete, this clears up alot for me. It's always so much better to have first hand accounts (other than lonely planet:|). I'll definitely be using your post throughout my stay in Laos. I'm heading there on thursday I think (the 21st), as I'm in Pai right now (northern thailand). I've only heard amazing things about Laos, and your advice and stories just make me that much more excited. Thanks a million tom
cool, glad it helped... Actually i really recommend the lonely planet laos guide. It has all the bus times from Vientiane to all over Laos, the distance, the duration, and the cost...Also a lot of boat ferry times...It's just really handy to have that info at hand, especially if you only have two weeks... have fun
