i do not claim to be a chemist nor do i want to be a chemist but im just wondering is there an "Easy" way to extract or synthesize mescaline? i've never seen or heard about it ever going around in my city, and id like to know if the process to synthesizing or extracting it is overly difficult? or if the precursors are hard to find? is it along the same lines as with the LSD syn, where "if you have to ask, you cant do it" is the policy? ive been searching for this drug for around 5 years now and still have found nothing. i dont understand why i cant find this stuff anywhere.
1. buy cactus - http://icarosdna.yage.net/peruviantorch/peruviantorch.htm 2. search forums / erowid / google for extraction techniques 3. study techniques very thoroughly 4. trial & error 5. mescaline
Acid-Base Extraction of Mescaline from San Pedro by Prdy2GO and starlight, HTML by metanoid ________________________________________ Prdy2GO: Step 1: Aqueous Extraction First, you need to prepare a "tea" from your cacti. If using dried cactus, powder it. If using fresh cactus, chop it to small pieces and then puree it in a blender. At this point, it is a good idea to weigh your cactus and record the weight. This will be helpful further on in the process. Put the cactus in your stainless steel pot and cover with just enough water to make a soup. Add some acid to make the pH of the soup fairly acidic. If using citric acid, you want to add about 3 grams per liter of water. Boil the cactus about 20 minutes. If you use sufficiently acidic water, there is no need to boil longer than this. After boiling, strain out the cactus chunks (the marc) and save the liquid. You want to do three acidic water extractions on the cactus. Combine the 3 liquids and toss the marc on your compost pile or dispose of it in some other non-wasteful manner. If the volume of liquid you have is large, you may want to boil it down to a more managable quantity. Step 2: De-Fatting Once cooled, the next step is to de-fat the solution. This step will remove the fats and many other non-alkaloidal plant matter. Make sure the solution is acidic (pH 4 is good) before doing this. If the solution is acidic, the alkaloids will be in a salt form which is soluble in water but not in xylene. Pour the solution into a glass jar (or separatory funnel, if available). Add 25-50% of the solution volume in xylene. For example, if you have 200ml of solution, add 50-100ml of xylene. Put the lid on the jar and gently turn the jar over 50 to 100 times. Do not shake the mixture vigorously as this could result in emulsions that will be difficult to separate. (If you do end up with an emulsion layer, which looks like a thin layer of poorly separated bubbles, bathing the jar in hot water can help separate the emulsion. If the emulsion layer is thin enough, you may wish to just discard it rather than taking the time to let it separate.) Once mixed, let the jar sit and separate out into the different layers. When this is done, you will have a top layer of solvent, a middle fatty layer, and a bottom layer containing the acidic aqueous solution (and the alkaloids). If you are using a separatory funnel, drain out the bottom aqueous layer and throw away the top two layers. Alternatively, use a turkey baster to siphon off the top two layers and discard them. (Make sure you dispose of all solvents safely! Do not flush it down the toilet if you have a septic tank. If pouring it down a sewer-connecting drain, make sure to wash it down with large amounts of water.) You will likely find that the turkey baster only gets off most of the solvent and fat layers. To get the thin layer that the turkey baster can't get, try this trick. Siphon off all of the remaining solvent and fat layers, as well as some of the top of the aqueous layer. Put this liquid into a tall thin glass container (a graduated cylinder or test tube, for example), and let it separate back into layers. Then, use an eye dropper to get off the solvent and fat layers, then add the remaining aqueous solution back to the main jar. There is one other possibile approach to separating the layers. Because xylene freezes at -47.7 degrees Celsius, a separation can be done in the freezer. Put the container in the freezer and let it sit for a few hours until the water has frozen solid. The xylene can then be poured off and discarded. I do not know if this will work for defatting, as I do not know the freezing point of cactus fats. If the fats freeze at freezer temperatures, it may not be possible to pour them off with the xylene. This freezing technique can certainly be used later on in steps 4 and 5 to separate the xylene and water layers, however. Repeat the de-fatting process two more times, or until you no longer get a fatty layer after separation. Make sure that you have good ventilation through the whole de-fatting process (or any time you are working with xylene). If you begin to feel light-headed or nauseous, or get a headache, go outside immediately and breathe fresh air until you feel better. Also, make sure there are no open flames or sparks as xylene is quite flammable. Step 3: Basification After de-fatting, slowly add sodium hydroxide to the aqueous solution until the pH is up around 10. Rather than adding dry sodium hydroxide, it may be wise to prepare a solution of sodium hydroxide in water, and add this. Be careful when mixing the sodium hydroxide and water, as the mixture will cause an exothermic (heat producing) reaction. Do not prepare the mixture in heat-sensitive containers. When working with sodium hydroxide, remember that it is a highly caustic material and can burn you badly. Avoid contact, especially with the yes, and if any gets on you wash the spot immediately with plenty of water. It is highly recommended that you wear protective gloves and goggles when working with sodium hydroxide or other hazardous chemicals. Be aware that once you do this step, you need to continue the extraction at least up through the xylene extraction because leaving the alkaloids in a strongly basic solution will cause them to start breaking down after several hours. Making the solution basic turns the alkaloids into their free base forms, which are soluble in xylene. Step 4: Extraction of Free Bases Once the solution is basic, xylene using the same ratio as used during the de-fatting process. Again, mix the solution thoroughly but gently to avoid emulsions. Let the solution sit, and it will separate out into two layers. On the bottom will be a basic aqueous solution, and on the top will be a xylene layer which now contains the alkaloids. Using either a separatory funnel or a siphoning process, collect the xylene layer and set it aside. Since there will still be significant alkaloids in the aqueous layer, repeat this process two more times. Combine all the xylene and discard the remaining aqueous solution. If you are using a separatory funnel, gas may be formed when adding xylene to the basic solution. To prevent pressure from building up and potentially leading to an explosion, vent the separatory funnel occasionally. If you are using a jar, you should remove the lid. Step 5: Salt Formation and Extraction The next step is to add acidic water to the xylene. This will cause the alkaloids to convert to their salt forms, which are soluble in water but not xylene. If using hydrochloric acid from the hardware store, it will already be diluted and may be usable as is. Read the label to find the concentration. One source says, "HCl from the hardware store is generally between 24%-36% HCl. This is far from dilute. Indeed, upon opening the container, a visible plume of white vapor can be seen creeping out of the bottle. First the lungs start to burn, then any skin which is exposed to the air starts to sting... This should be diluted, especially if it is going to be worked with without a fume hood. 20 drops acid per 500ml of water may even be sufficient." If using vinegar (acetic acid), it comes quite diluted (around 5%) and should be used as is. It would probably be best to use plain white vinegar. I do not know what else is in vinegar other than water and acetic acid, but it is likely other chemicals remain from the original wine, and this may affect your final product. There should not be any harmful products from using vinegar, since it is a food-safe product, but you may not get nice crystals after evaporation. If using citric acid (which is the recommended choice), prepare a solution of citric acid powder with a small amount of water. I recommend using citric acid because unlike hydrochloric acid, it is food-safe and safe to handle, and unlike either hydrochloric acid or vinegar, it is available in pure form. I have been told that using hydrochloric or acetic acid has the advantage that both are volatile and that excess will evaporate off, unlike citric acid. However, since neither are easily available in pure form, it is still probably better to use citric acid. Beware that if you do use hydrochloric acid and let it evaporate, the fumes can be hazardous and the evaporation should not be done where you might breathe in the vapors. For this step, it is useful to have some idea how much alkaloid should be in your cactus extract. If you weighed your cactus before extraction. Trichocereus pachanoi has been analyzed with mescaline contents of 0.025-0.12% fresh weight (0.331-2.0% dry weight). Mescaline is usually around 50% or more of total alkaloid content. You will want to add an equimolar quantity of acid to the solution. If you can't or don't want to estimate the alkaloid content, Trout gives the following work-around: add very small quantities of acidic water to the xylene, let separate, and then collect the water layer. Check the pH of the water, and it should be neutral. Repeat this with small batches of acidic solution until the water layers come out acidic. Trout points out that "Something to keep in mind is that neutralization won't always be immediate. pH should be checked after a few minutes to see how it is, adjusted if needed and rechecked a few minutes later." If you are using citric acid and you are not worried about having citric acid powder in the final product, you can just add enough acidic water to make the solution slightly acidic, and repeat this once or twice, then combine the extracted water layers. As citric acid is both food-safe and a solid powder, this is a sloppy but safe approach. Shulgin suggests that this may be a better approach than stopping when the water layers stop coming out neutral: "My gut feeling is that there may be quite a bit of alkaloid still in the xylene, and maybe a couple of extracts with more aqueous acid would be useful. True, it may load the product down with excess citric acid, but the increased yield might be worth it." However you approach it, after the acidification and water extraction step, discard the xylene. Again, make sure to dispose of it in a safe manner. Theoretically, this step could be skipped entirely, and you could just let the xylene evaporate. This would leave behind mescaline (and the other alkaloids) in free bas form, which is an oil. This is not recommended however, as mescaline oil is highly caustic and it would burn your skin to touch it. Since its an oil, it would also not be possible to put into capsules. Perhaps you could put the oil into some acidic fruit juice and safely drink it, but it is still preferable to go through this step to produce a salt form. Perhaps it may even be smokable, though I know of no reports of anyone trying to smoke (or vaporize, rather) free base cactus alkaloids. The boiling point for mescaline free base is around 180 degrees Celsius. One final concern is that free base mescaline oil may not have the shelf life of a salt. Step 6: Evaporation Finally, pour the water into a large pyrex baking pan. Set it in a protected location to evaporate. Let it evaporate slowly at room temperature rather than using heat, as this will give you a better chance of producing nice crystals. After the water has fully evaporated, scrape up the crystals (or whatever solid mass you end up with) and put them in capsules or a vial for storage. Keep in mind that when measuring doses, there are a few things to consider. First, your extract will contain all the alkaloids from the cactus, not just the mescaline. Second, depending on what acid you used in step 5, you will have different salts of the alkaloids. For example, if you used citric acid, you will have mescaline citrate (as well as citrate salts of the other alkaloids). If you used vinegar, you will have mescaline acetate. If you used muriatic acid you will have mescaline hydrochloride. The doses of each will be slightly different, due to the different molecular weights of the different acids. Because of these factors, you will need to figure out the potency of your material before you can weigh doses accurately. Conclusion Do make sure that you follow all safety instructions religiously. Failure to excersize caution can easily lead to harm and even death. To stress this point even further, I will close with some comments from Trout: "It seems like it does not matter how many times you tell some people things, lots of them decide what THEY think is really important and items like solvent exposure and not using plastics or solvents stored in plastics (or even the use of slow and careful heating) get forgotten whenever it is not convenient to follow the instructions. Its very distressing how careless some people are. Worse, people like this often expose not just themselves but family, children and pets with no thought or concern. You would not believe some of the letters I have gotten. Some of them I almost can't shred fast enough. I'm sadly coming to believe that a simple citrate tea (lime not lemon) or else dried outer flesh consumed as powder are the only safe approaches the general public is capable of handling responsibly." References [1]Fletch. Private e-mail. December 7, 2001. [2]Shulgin, Alexander. Private e-mail. November 24, 2001. [3]Trout, K. "Sacred Cacti." Second edition, 1999: Chapters 4, 6 and 10. [4]Trout, K. Private e-mail. December 1, 2001. ________________________________________ Starlight: crystallization using sulfuric acid Just replace steps 5 and 6 above with the step below: This method relies on the low solubility of mescaline sulfate in very cold water. (this is not tested from personal experience, but sourced from Trout: Sacred Cacti and Selected Succulents, 1997) Step 5: Salt Formation and Crystallization Once you have separated the organic solvent, dark (or in the case of recrystallization at least yellow) with alkaloid and impurities from the basic solution, extract it with dilute sulfuric acid. Use only as much as is required to neutralize the alkaloid bases. A little excess at this point is not desirable, but not of concern. Separate the small volume of aqueous solution now containing the mescaline sulfate and other alkaloid sulfates. It will need gentle heat to reduce it somewhat, but do not let it become thick, or overheat. Take this solution while warm and insulate it well (a small styrofoam shipping box will work as will being carefully wrapped in towels). Stick the whole thing in your refrigerator until quite cold (near 0C) but do not freeze. The object is to retard the rate of cooling to as slow as possible. This will cause the formation of large, beautiful crystals. If you chill rapidly a crystalline mush of many tiny crystals will form, trapping impurities. Take the mother liquor containing the crystals and pour through a buchner funnel. Allow the air to keep sucking through the crystals. Briefly squirt a bit of ice cold water through the crystals to rinse them of any remaining solution. Turn off the air flow briefly and immediately dump out the mother liquor and ice water rinsing and save. Rapidly resume air flowing through the Buchner. Then quickly rinse the crystals with a little acetone to remove the remaining water. Let the air keep flowing to pull off as much liquid as possible. (If one has access to a cold room all of this will be more efficient). Take the filter and immediately dry in a warm oven (120-120F) with the door open. Package as soon as dry and keep away from light, heat, moisture, air. Second and third crops of crystals may be obtained by reducing the mother liquor further (do not allow to become thick) and again chilled. By the third or fourth time other alkaloids will begin to crystallize. These may be grey in colour and have a plate-like structure. They should be easily distinguishable from the beautiful yellow or white needles and prisms of mescaline sulfate. The sulfate salt can be converted to the hydrochloride salt by acid base and evaporation if so required.
3,4,5-Trimethoxybenzaldehyde Synthesis by Hest -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5-Bromovanillin Add 15,2g vanilin and 17,6g Br2 to 75ml AcOH, let the solution stir 1 h. Pour out the solution in 250mL ice-water. filter off the product. Dry and recrystallise from ethanol. mp. 162°C. TLC Rf 0,47 EtOAC 1:1 3,5-Dimethoxy-4-Hydroxybenzaldehyde (Syringaldehyde) In a two-necked round-bottomed flask equipped with a Claisen, and a thermomether into the solution, is dissolved 4.9g Na in 100mL dry methanol. After distilling off 30ml methanol, a solution of 17,9g bromovanilin and 3g Cu(I)Br in 50mL DMF is added in one portion. The distillation is continued until the reaction mixture reaches 100°C (takes app. 1-1.5 h. total methanol distilled off is 80mL). The reaction mixture is poured into 200mL 3M HCL/ice, extracted with 2*75mL EtOAc, the EtOAc is washed with 2*50mL water, dried with MgSO4 and evaporated. Mp.108°C (rec. from ethanol) TLC Rf 0,35 EtOAc 1:1 3,4,5-trimethoxybenzaldehyde 10g 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxy-benzaldehyde, 13.5g K2CO3 and 8.3g dimethylsulfate is dissolved in 80mL dry DMF, the solution is stirred for 2h and then poured into 800mL ice/water, the product is filtered off and xtalised from cyclohexane. None of these reactions gives below 80% yield after the xtalisation. The condensation with MeNO2 and Ethylenediammonium diacetate gives ~30% yield. Reference: Synthesis 308 (1983) 3,4,5-Trimethoxy-nitrostyrene. A solution of 40 cc of nitromethane and 100 g. of trimethoxybenzaldehyde in 200 cc alcohol is cooled to 0 deg C and while it is stirred mechanically there is introduced a solution of 45 g. pure potassium hydroxide in 45 cc water and 90 cc methanol at the rate of about one drop per second, care being taken that the temperature does not rise. Fifteen minutes after the addition is completed the solution is poured into 500 cc concentrated hydrochloric acid mixed with sufficient fee to assure its presence throughout the slow addition and to maintain the temperature of -10 deg C. The precipitated nitrostyrene is separated by filtration and washing and may be purified by recrystallizing from 700 cc alcohol. The pale yellow plates which melt at 120-121 deg C are obtained in a yield of approximately 78% of theory. Mescaline. [A] APPARATUS A cell of porous porcelain (PC) (external dimensions 75x160 mm) with a glazed rim is placed in a glass jar of 500 cc capacity, surrounded by a cooling bath. The anode is a lead or carbon rod, surrounded by a glass coil; the cooling water flows through the coil and discharges into the cooling bath. The cathode is a sheet of lead (220x90x2 mm.), which previous to each experiment is electrolytically coated with lead peroxide, in a bath of dilute sulfuric acid. REDUCTION The cathode liquor consists of a solution of 30g. 3,4,5-trimethoxy- nitrostyrene in 100 cc glacial acetic acid and 100 cc alcohol, to which 50 cc conc. hydrochloric acid has been added. The anode compartment is filled, to the same level occupied by the catholyte, with a solution of 25 cc conc. sulfuric acid in 175 cc water. The reduction requires 12 hours, using a current of 5-6 amperes; the cathode current density should be about 3 amperes per square centimeter. The temperature is regulated by the flow of the cooling water and the catholyte should be kept at 20 deg C for the first six hours; the temp is then allowed to rise until it reaches 40 deg C at the end of the reduction. When the reduction is complete, the catholyte is filtered, evaporated in vacuum and the residue taken up in 300 cc water Unreduced nitrostyrene is extracted sucessively with ethyl acetate and with ether. The crude mescaline hydrochloride solution in a separatory funnel is then treated with a cold concentrated solution of 100 g. of sodium hydroxide and the liberated base exhaustively extracted with ether. The somewhat concentrated and dried (potassium carbonate) solution is treated with a stream of dry hydrogen chloride and the separated hydrochloride twice recrystallized from absolute alcohol. The pure mescaline hydrochloride, thus obtained in 77% yield, forms white leaflets melting at 184°C.
hi if gotten as far as synthesising the 3,4,5-Trimethoxy-nitrostyrene. dont have a vacuum pump though... is it absolutely necessary or is there a way around, extra chemical pathway or something? thanks a million
Extraction is simple, a bright eight grader can to it. Syth is alot more complex and many methods use closely watched chems.3,4,5 trimethoxybenzaldahyde fairly screams "I'm making mescaline". However it is at least an order of magnitude easier than LSD.If this is for personal use extract or just gag down some cacti. If this is a for profit thing mix 1 part 2c-e with 10 parts any bitter, nontoxic white powder and mix evenly
Food-safe extraction by 69Ron : Non toxic food safe extraction of mescaline using d-limonene (orange oil) Revision 1.221 What you need: * 100 grams of died cactus, preferably dried green outer flesh with the core, spines, and the thin waxy skin removed from it. * 25 grams of edible calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime). * 300 ml of any type of drinking water. Tap water is just fine. * 900 ml of food grade non-toxic d-limonene (orange oil). Note that some non-distilled d-limonene apparently contains traces of citric acid (less than 0.1%). Someone brought this up as a possible concern. The amount of citric acid present is too small to have any impact at all on the extraction process. We would need at least 10 grams of citric acid for there to be any impact at all on this extraction process. 0.1% of 1000 ml is only 1 gram, and most non-distilled d-limonene would contain much less that 0.1%. So don’t worry about traces of citric acid present in non-distilled d-limonene, its of no concern at all. Citric acid cannot be distilled, so distilled d-limonene cannot contain any at all. * 150 -225 ml of vinegar. * 3 coffee filters. * A large container to hold the cactus mix. It's best to use glass or metal. If plastic is used, HDPE or PP is best. Do not use polystyrene because it dissolves in d-limonene. * A dish for evaporating your final alkaloid extract in. * A glass gravy separator or a separatory funnel (HDPE or PP plastic could be used instead of glass) Here's the procedure 1 - Powderize your dried cactus. Mix 100 grams of dried powderized cactus with 25 grams of calcium hydroxide. Add 300 ml water to make it feel wet but not watery. Mix for about 5 minutes. 2 - Add 300 ml of d-limonene. Mix well. Let sit a few hours. 3 - Pour off the d-limonene through a filter. (It's really cool if you use a French Coffee Press for this. Using a French Coffee Press you press the cactus mix and squeeze out the d-limonene to get every last drop of d-limonene out. Then filter it through a paper coffee filter.) 4 - Add 25 ml of vinegar to the d-limonene. Mix thoroughly. 5 - Separate the vinegar from the d-limonene (the vinegar is at the bottom, the d-limonene at the top). This vinegar will contain mescaline acetate. Evaporate your vinegar in a food dehydrator at 155 F to get waxy amber slightly impure mescaline acetate. NOTE: to separate the vinegar from the d-limonene you can use a glass gravy separator or a separatory funnel. Seperatory funnels are considered laboratory glassware and are banned for individual use in some locations. A gravy separator works almost just as well and can be found at some local kitchenware shops. 6 - Repeat steps 4 and 5 at least 2-3 times. 7 - Repeat steps 2 - 6 at least 2 times. Comments The great thing about this tech is that is it 100% food grade and non-toxic. You can buy food grade calcium hydroxide at many places, it's often called hydrated lime and is used in cooking (making pickles, tortillas, etc.). Make sure to use non-toxic food grade d-limonene, that way if any d-limonene residue is left behind its safe to ingest it. Use regular white vinegar that is 5% acetic acid. The result is a waxy amber colored slightly impure mescaline acetate approximately 85-95% pure. It might take a while to dry complete. Have patients. SWIM has used this tech and got yields you cannot believe. Mescaline acetate is a little waxy, and tends to stick to things. It's texture is not as nice as mescaline HCl which is much more powdery in texture. However, SWIM has found that mescaline acetate is stronger by weight than mescaline HCl. He's not sure why. It should be weaker because it's heavier. I believe it absorbs faster and that's why it's stronger. It definitely comes on much quicker than mescaline HCl does. The purity of this extraction is good enough for a great trip. You really don't need 99% purity. You can get close to 95-99% purity using the purification steps below, but without the purification steps it's about 40-90% pure depending on the cactus used. Without purification, it's still concentrated enough to put into gel tabs for a really nice convenient trip without all the bulk of the cactus. Pure mescaline acetate is a little stronger than pure mescaline HCl, but not by much. Note that this tech was originally developed for San Pedro cactus but work equally well for Peyote, Achuma, and Peruvian Torch. Purification of Mescaline Acetate The alkaloid extract produced from this tech is a mix of various alkaloids. The exact mix of mescaline to other alkaloids present depends on the type of cactus used as well as the individual specimen extracted. Mescaline acetate is a white free flowing powder. If the extract is brown or amber, or sticky, it's got a high number of non-mescaline alkaloids present. It can be used as is for the full spectrum effects, but if one wants a more pure product, the other alkaloids can be easily removed. In this section we talk about a very simple technique for cleaning up the mescaline acetate by removing the non-mescaline alkaloids. Mescaline acetate is insoluble in MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). MEK is a solvent that is found in fruit, similar to d-limonene. It's a normal part of the human diet, but only in very small amounts, like acetone. D-limonene is a much safer solvent, but MEK evaporates really fast so it's easily removed from the end product. To clean mescaline acetate, dissolve 200 mg of impure sticky amber mescaline acetate in 2 ml of cold MEK. Smash the pure mescaline finely in the MEK. You want the mescaline acetate to form a fine powder at the bottom. Wait for a while until the mescaline acetate powder sinks to the bottom and simply decant the MEK slowly, being careful not to disturb the mescaline acetate. After one cleaning, the mescaline acetate will still be somewhat amber or tan in color. Repeat with 2 ml more cold MEK. After a second wash and decant, dry the mescaline acetate with a fan. After all the smell of the MEK is gone, you're left with off-white nearly pure mescaline acetate. The impurities removed by the MEK in some cases can be as much as 60% of the alkaloids extracted. The impurities tend to be much less for Peruvian Torch, and very high for Achuma and some varieties of San Pedro. The amber impurities in the MEK can then be evaporated and used separately. They are typically very sticky and will not form a dry powder even after the MEK is completely evaporated. There are at least two active alkaloids present if the cactus used was San Pedro or Achuma. They are psychoactive, but very much unlike mescaline. San Pedro's impurities tend to be more sedating, similar to the effects of harmaline. Both San Pedro and Achuma have an impurity present that seems to have some MAOI activity which can be used to greatly enhance the effects of morning glory seeds, HWBR seeds, and ololiuqui seeds. Pure mescaline acetate is a white free flowing powder with a slightly waxy texture very similar to freebase DMT. You'll find that it's much easier to manage after purifying it, being not nearly as waxy, and no longer sticky. After purification, the experience is a much finer clearer experience far more resembling the effects of LSD, especially when taken with coffee. It is to some, far superior to the effects had from the full spectrum of cactus alkaloids. NOTE: for the tech to remain food grade, USP or FCC grade MEK must be used. If technical grade or ACS grade is used, it's no longer food grade.
I'd really like to know if this method of mescaline extraction would transfer over well enough to be used similarly w/ something like P. viridis to extract the DMT, and, if so, would one simply follow the same basic formula written here, or, would there need to be modifications made in order to make DMT crystals; also, obviously you wouldn't have dimethyltryptamine HCl, instead it would be (hypothetically speaking, you know, that is *if* this would work) dimethyltryptamine acetate. Would that resultant substance even be smokable? For that matter, is mescaline acetate smokable? Thanks!
Ultimate Mescaline and The Master TEK The Technique(TEK): 1/2lb (224gs) of San Pedro var. Cactus powder is added to a clean 2 quart plastic HDPE2 ammonia bottle. 1500ml of tap water is added to the bottle and is capped and shaken. 6tbsps of NaOH(lye) is added using a funnel 1tbsp at a time. Cap and shake bottle after each tbsp to distribute NaOH(lye) evenly and to avoid melting the bottle. 500ml d-limonene or xylene solvant is added to bottle using a funnel which will fill the bottle to maximum capacity. Make sure to leave a little air bubble at the top to help with the mixing process. Cap and shake bottle as much as you can the first day and let sit over night. The strong alkaline cactus solution will shrink a bit over night so add a little more solvant the next day, shake again and let seperate. Drill a hole in a spare cap and feed a 3ft long piece of 3/8in clear vinyl tubbing at 8 and 1/4mm long from the bottom of the cap to siphon off the solvant. Cap and siphon solvant into a pint glass Ball mason jar. Make sure to only get solvant and no cacti solution. Some solvant will be left behind in the solution bottle. 300ml to 400ml of solvant is perfect for salting. Add 1tbsp NaOH(lye) to the cactus solution using a funnel, cap and shake. Add 2oz of distilled water to the jar of siphoned solvant and 2 drops of hardware store brand 31.45% muratic acid(HCl) using a tincture dropper and shake for 5min. Seperate layers in a quart ziplock freezer baggie or freeze hcl extract layer solid by putting jar in the freezer. Hang baggie up by one corner and carefully snip a small hole in the bottom corner to slowly drain the bottom clear to foamy layer. Drain the solvant layer back into the solution bottle and cap and shake for 5min then let seperate. At this point the solution will seperate in a few minutes. Shake and let seperate a few times to maximize extraction yields. Extract cactus solution 3x. All 3 hcl water extraction layers are collected together in a jar of 200ml fresh solvant and shaken repeatedly to wash the hcl extract solution. This will help remove any solvant soluble materials that may have polluted the hcl extract solution layer. The mixture is seperated with freezing to break down the fatty matter that floats in the hcl solution. Make sure to remove the frozen hcl layer to evaporation(evap) dish before it melts or you will be scraping excess crystals off the inner jar. The hcl extract solution is evaporated on a large glass baking dish, using a fan or 150F oven. Fan evaporation will ensure that you do not damage the product. The oven is great for testing to see if alkaloids crystal from the material used or if extractors are in a hurry. Purification: For purification the crystal residue is added to a clean pint Ball mason jar. 2oz of grocery store clear ammonia is added to the jar + 400ml fresh solvant. The jar is shaken for 5min and mixture seperated in a clean quart frezer baggie. Remove the ammonia layer and collect solvant is a clean pint Ball mason jar. Add 2oz of fresh distilled water and 2 drops 31.45% hardware store pool muratic acid(HCl) and shake for 5min. Seperate layers and evap 2oz hcl extract layer. This tek produces absolutely pure alkaloid hcl crystals. Doubling the Tek: To double the volume of extraction simply use a clean HDPE2 milk jug or water jug and double all measurements in the recipe. Replace pint ball mason jars with quart ball mason jars and quart ziplock freezer baggies with gallon ziplock freezer baggies. Still add only 1tbsp NaOH(lye) after each pull. Pack into '0' gelatin capsules using the back end of a nail. Refer to ekstanza's tek for more regarding this method.
Ive always wondered why it isnt stocked by any venodrs i know of, its so easy to make. Same as dmt. Maybe thatst the reaosn they dont bother tyhopugh
It is easy but hella time consuming. Thus, there is no easy way to profit . . . at least that's what i've always thought. The days of synthesized Mescaline HCl and Mescaline sulfate are long, long gone . . .
get a vac. now what did u do about the addition of dimethyl sulfate? that stuff is rather nasty didnt have to deal with it, got 3,4,5-trimethoxybenzaldehyde and converted to nitrostryne ala shulgin... reduction with LiAlH was a disaster, had my apparatus blow twice, possibly due to static charge generated in the heating mantle or exsecive humidity reacting with the ether producing explosive mixture... can one use a less flammable solvent by the way? anyway, looking into electrochemical reduction. have any experience? cheers
