Check Engine Light

The flashing check engine light is triggered by only one problem.. misfiring to the point of damaging the catalytic converter(s).

Nice screenname.. lol

 

Shit, mines been flashing for a while. I poured in some shitty gas and since then its never been the same .

 

I think some cars are designed to have the check engine light come one sometimes...for no reason except for you to drop it off for service. They reset the light "problem is fixed", charge you several hundred dollars and send you on your way.

 

The last one that started blinking at me, Didn't start to miss, It threw the piston out of the side of the block. Only a few bits were found in the pan lol.
I did drive it another 1/1.5 miles with the pedal to the floor and dumping cylinders as it drove. Got the trailer to load it up, Got in the jeep and fired it up and drove it up on.
Gotta love the 4.0L I6, Only time you can kill them is when you try and I failed at that. Never a better motor than 91'-99' 4.0L HO, With the exception of the 3800 series motors.

 

Except blowing head gaskets and cracking heads every 6 months haha. They are hearty though. 3800s same thing, head gaskets and intake gaskets all day long. The bottom ends on both are almost indestructible though. I ran 20 psi through a 3800 and couldn't kill it

 

That damn light & the ABS light was on in the Suburu for a month- -got the brakes done and an alignment- -presto!!-

 

I have never had ANY problem with any other 4.0L under 200k except the one mentioned and I own three. Now the stupid 'expansion' chamblers on the tube header/oem header is another story.
You can bet the farm the exhaust/intake manifold gasket will blow and or header crack every couple of years.

 

Man I don't know what it is, personally I think it's the HOAT coolant that people think they never have to change.. eats up the head gasket and pits aluminum, turns into mud like consistency and clogs everything up until the shit explodes. I've done literally hundreds of 4.0 head gaskets here in FL and I usually have to flush the heater core out both ways with high pressure water. If it pops, out comes the dash. 3 out of 5, cracked heads. Mudded up bottom ends? Get the top end together, change the oil twice and no problems ever.

Maybe it's the heat here I don't know. Half of those jeeps have fans that don't work worth a shit either. Freespinning fan clutch, bad electric fan motor, or a bunch of shit in the power steering system for the hydraulic fans. People just think it's a jeep and they don't ever have to touch it, until it blows up and they have to pay me 3 grand.

No complaints here I like working on them

 

The XJ Cherokee needs a 180 T stat to keep it cooler and with the electric fans on them, The second only works when you bypass or run a/c. So its always going to run hot when half the cooling system isn't functioning correctly. Good ol mopar lol.

The Grand Cherokees need the same 180, Too much rig and not enough cooling from fan clutch. They are more of a PITA IMO to work on. I wont touch a WJ with a 4.7L, Pure junk.

Too many people don't realize that a jeep requires more attention. They cooling needs E/G green stuff and regardless change it every couple, Or put a water pump lube, Machinist oil, Etc to keep it from turning to acid. But then again, When was the last time people took time out to 'tune up' their own car let alone check into failures to avoid.

Yep the 96'-99' year heads with casting 0199 IIRC. Completely forgot about the shit casting and it cracked in the middle. Shitty thing, Alabama cylinder head is out of business and they did the best job on the I6 heads.

Ive stopped buying motors and basically blocks only. That way I can stroke it with a 4.2l head and crank, Both of which are strong as hell if built correct. Takes it to a 4.6/4.7 and 300hp and axle snapping torque.
Always fun to pick the underdog and make a sleeper or a WTF is in that on the trails lol.

In the end, Like you said, Who cares! Its extra $$ in our pockets from plain failure or lack of maintenance with jeeps lol.

 

my check engine light isn't on but my ABS light has been on for a while

 

Slam on your breaks really hard while driving and you will know if the ABS works or not. Just please make sure there is no one behind you, and make sure your steering wheel is completely straight.

 

I had to brake for deer a few weeks ago and slammed on my brakes really hard and they seemed alright. The car had a brake job not too long ago so I have no clue why the light is on

 

It could be the bearing and not the brakes. The ABS light will come on if the front bearing is damaged.

You will usually feel or hear if the bearing is going. The noise and feel will increase with speed.

 

If the ABS light is on, that means the ABS isn't going to work. Any trouble codes in that system and it's disabled. However that doesn't have anything to do with the hydraulic and mechanical aspects of the brakes.

 

Yep, Same ol I6 just churched up over the years and best IMO were the 91'-99' 4.0L HO's. Only reason they stopped using it, Is because it couldn't pass the bullshit emissions 'requirements'.

 

doesn't the brake pedal vibrate when you have ABS and slam on the brakes? In other words no vibration no ABS right?

 

yea, the ABS will pulse the brakes to keep them from locking..if it doesn't do that then ABS doesn't work. Also if the wheels lock up u know it doesn't work.

 

My car is so old it doesn't have one.

I listen and look and decide for myself.